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Antenna length calculator

Wire lengths for dipoles, EFHWs, verticals, loops, Yagis and more, at any frequency.

MHz
Units
Wire
License
Wavelength (λ)
21.11 m (69.27 ft)

Every length here comes from a formula, so treat it as a starting point: ARRL says to “add about six inches” and trim at the antenna’s final height.

Jump to a band
Half-wave dipole
32.96 ft
Linked dipole
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EFHW
32.96 ft
1/4-wave vertical
16.48 ft
Full-wave loop
70.42 ft
Yagi beam
32.30 ft
J-Pole
52.00 ft
Cubical quad
70.42 ft
5/8-wave vertical
41.20 ft
Coax lengths
11.49 ft

Half-wave dipole

Total Length
32.96 ft (10.05 m)
Each Leg
16.48 ft (5.02 m)
Formula: 468 / f(MHz) — The classic wire antenna, easy to build and effective

Already built it? Fine-tune with your SWR reading

Hang the antenna where it will live, then find the frequency where SWR is lowest. Enter it here.

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Enter where your SWR dip is.

Math: new length = old length × measured ÷ wanted. “If we divide the observed frequency by the desired frequency, we arrive at a correction factor … by which we multiply the old length to get the new length.” — N1FD; same method in KB6NU. It’s a close estimate, so check again after trimming.

Antenna building tips

Cut Long, Trim Slowly: Always cut wire 3-5% longer than calculated. Trim 1/2" at a time, checking SWR after each cut. You can't add wire back!
Height Matters: Dipoles perform best at 1/2 wavelength or higher above ground. Lower heights favor NVIS (near-vertical) propagation.
Ground Radials: For verticals, more radials = better performance. 4 radials minimum, 16-32 is ideal, 120 is perfect.
Wire Type: Use stranded wire for flexible installations. Solid copper works for permanent setups.
EFHW Tips: Use a 49:1 or 64:1 transformer (unun). A short counterpoise (10-15 ft) helps with RF grounding. Great for portable ops!
Cut long, then trim: ARRL: “Actually, you should add about six inches to the results of your calculations.” Then trim at the antenna’s final height — “If you see that the SWR is getting lower as you move lower in frequency, your antenna is too long.” (ARRL, Single-Band Dipoles) Use the fine-tune box above to work out how much. Cut equal amounts from both dipole legs; for an EFHW, trim the far end only.

Inverted-V: sources disagree on whether drooping the legs needs a longer or shorter wire (claims range from about 4% shorter to about 2% longer), so we don’t apply a correction. Cut long and trim.

Antenna building questions

Why is my dipole SWR so high even though I cut it to the calculated length?
The 468/f formula is a starting point, not an exact answer. Real-world factors affect the actual resonant length:
  • Height above ground — Lower antennas need to be shorter (ground capacitance)
  • Wire insulation — Insulated wire needs to be ~3% shorter than bare wire
  • Nearby objects — Metal gutters, towers, and trees detune the antenna
  • Wire diameter — Thicker wire = slightly shorter antenna
  • End effects — How you terminate the ends affects length
Always cut 3-5% long and trim to resonance. An antenna analyzer or NanoVNA makes this much easier.
Do I really need a balun for my dipole?
Short answer: Yes, it's highly recommended.

A dipole is a balanced antenna but coax is unbalanced. Without a balun, RF current flows on the outside of your coax shield (common mode current), causing:
  • RF in your shack — hot mic, computer interference, RFI complaints
  • Distorted radiation pattern — your feedline becomes part of the antenna
  • Inconsistent SWR — readings change when you touch or move the coax
  • Increased noise pickup on receive
A simple 1:1 choke balun at the feedpoint solves this. Many hams run dipoles without baluns and "it works," but adding one typically improves performance and eliminates problems. See our Choke Calculator to build one.
What's the best height to hang my dipole?
It depends on what you want to do:

For DX (long distance): Get it as high as possible — ideally 1/2 wavelength or higher. At this height, the radiation angle is low, favoring skip propagation. For 40m, that's about 66 feet; for 20m, about 33 feet.

For NVIS (regional, 0-500 miles): Lower is actually better! A dipole at 1/8 to 1/4 wavelength high radiates straight up, hitting the ionosphere and coming back down for reliable regional coverage. This is ideal for emergency communications and nets.

Practical advice: Most hams can't get a dipole to optimal DX height. Don't worry — a dipole at 30-40 feet will work both DX and regional. "Best antenna is the one that's up."
Inverted-V vs flat dipole — which is better?
Neither is universally "better" — they have different characteristics:

Inverted-V advantages:
  • Only needs ONE high support point (center)
  • Slightly more omnidirectional pattern
  • Takes up less horizontal space
  • Often easier to install
Flat dipole advantages:
  • More gain broadside to the wire (~2 dB)
  • Better for working specific directions
  • Slightly more bandwidth
Inverted-V tips: Keep the included angle above 90° (120° is ideal). Steeper angles reduce efficiency and bandwidth. The ends should be at least 10 feet off the ground.
How many radials do I need for a vertical antenna?
More is better, but there's a point of diminishing returns:

  • 4 radials: Absolute minimum. Works, but you're losing 3+ dB
  • 16-20 radials: Good performance for most stations
  • 24-32 radials: Excellent — near maximum practical efficiency
  • 32 vs 64 radials: The difference is negligible according to real-world testing
Key principles from DX Commander (M0MCX) research:
  • More shorter radials beat fewer longer radials — this is critical
  • Total radial wire = 2× wavelength of your band is good; 4× wavelength is the practical maximum benefit
  • For ground-mounted radials, exact length doesn't matter much — just get wire on the ground
  • Elevated radials are different — these should be tuned to frequency, and 4 elevated radials can work well
Practical example: For a 20m vertical, 24 radials at 10ft (3m) each gives you 4× wavelength of total wire — near optimal performance without excessive cost.

Further reading: Callum (M0MCX) at DX Commander has done extensive real-world testing on radial systems. His research paper "How many radials do I need for a vertical antenna?" provides practical measurements and recommendations.
What about elevated (raised) radials — how are they different?
Elevated radials are an entirely different ground system from buried/ground-mounted radials. Instead of dozens of wires laid on or under the soil acting as an imperfect mirror, you use a small number of resonant wires lifted off the ground. The currents flow in the radials themselves rather than through lossy soil, so a few elevated radials can match the efficiency of a much larger buried field.

Key numbers (from published research):
  • How many: 2 works (with a slightly skewed pattern), 3 is acceptable, 4 is the practical standard. Going beyond 4 yields only small additional gains.
  • Length: Each radial is a resonant 1/4 wavelength — start at 234/f(MHz) feet (71.5/f in meters) and trim each one to resonance once installed. Surrounding objects detune them, so in-place adjustment matters.
  • Minimum height: Roughly 0.04 λ above ground (≈ 2.8 ft on 20 m, ≈ 5.5 ft on 40 m, ≈ 11 ft on 80 m). Below that, ground losses start to dominate again. Higher is better; gains taper above ~0.1 λ.
  • Feed impedance: Horizontal elevated radials give roughly 30–36 Ω. Drooping them at ~45° raises the impedance to ~50 Ω — a direct match to coax without a transformer.
  • Equivalence: Christman's NEC modeling (QST, Aug 1988) showed that 4 elevated radials ≈ 60 buried radials in terms of low-angle gain efficiency.
When elevated wins:
  • Portable / POTA / SOTA operation — no shovels, no lawn destruction
  • Rocky, sandy, or poor-conductivity soil where buried radials work poorly
  • Roof, balcony, or hilltop installs where you can't lay a ground field at all
  • Anywhere you want fewer wires and a near-50 Ω match
When buried/ground-mounted wins:
  • Permanent backyard install with grass over the wires
  • Multi-band verticals — buried radials are non-resonant and broadband; elevated radials must be cut for each band
  • Salt-water or marsh sites where ground conductivity is already excellent
Practical tips:
  • Space radials symmetrically (90° apart for 4 radials, 120° for 3) — asymmetric layouts skew the radiation pattern.
  • Use a common-mode choke at the feedpoint — elevated radial systems tend to put RF on the coax shield more than buried ones.
  • If you must run only 1 or 2 radials (e.g., space constraints), expect a few dB of loss and an asymmetric pattern.
References:
  • Christman, A.D. (KB8I, now K3LC), "Elevated Vertical Antenna Systems", QST, August 1988, pp. 35–42 — the canonical NEC modeling study comparing buried vs. elevated radial counts.
  • Severns, R. (N6LF), "Verticals, Ground Systems and Some History" — multi-part QEX series and follow-up measurement papers (real over-the-air field tests confirming Christman's modeling).
  • ARRL Antenna Book, current edition — chapter on vertical antennas and ground systems summarizes both regimes.
What wire should I use to build an antenna?
Common choices and when to use them:

Stranded copper wire (most popular):
  • 14 AWG for permanent installations up to 1500W
  • 16-18 AWG for portable antennas — lighter and flexible
  • Insulated (THHN) is fine — just cut 3% shorter
Copperweld (copper-clad steel):
  • Much stronger for long spans
  • Good for 80/160m dipoles that sag
  • Harder to work with (stiff, hard to solder)
Avoid:
  • Aluminum wire — hard to connect, corrodes
  • Steel wire — lossy at RF unless copper-clad
  • Speaker wire — too thin for transmitting
Can I use an antenna on bands it's not cut for?
Yes, but you'll need a tuner and accept some compromises:

Dipoles have harmonics: A center-fed dipole works on its odd harmonics. QST: “This is why a 40 meter center-fed ½ wave dipole can be used on 15 meters.” (The match tends to land a little above exact 3×, so you may still need a tuner.) On even harmonics (a 40m dipole on 20m) the center becomes a high-impedance point, so it won’t match without a tuner. An end-fed half-wave is different — it’s already fed at a high-impedance point, so it works on every whole-number harmonic. The pattern changes on harmonic bands either way.

Which bands need a tuner? Each antenna in the calculator now has a “Bands this antenna covers” box showing which bands match on their own and which don’t.

Better solutions: Fan dipole, trap dipole, or OCF dipole if you need multi-band from one antenna.
Why does 468/f work? Where does that number come from?
It came from measurements. “The number 468 first appeared in the 1929 ARRL Handbook,” and 1926 QST measurements gave constants “ranging from 423 to 471.” (KB6NU)

The common explanation: a half-wave in free space is 492 / f(MHz) feet, and a real wire resonates about 5% shorter — “the length of a half-wave radiator is in the order of 5% less than the length of a half-wave in free space” (KB6NU, quoting Collins Radio). 492 × 0.95 ≈ 468.

Why it's only a starting point: height, wire size, insulation and nearby objects all shift it. ARRL says to “add about six inches” and trim.
What's the difference between an EFHW and a random wire antenna?
They look similar but work very differently:

End-Fed Half-Wave (EFHW):
  • Cut to a specific length (half-wave of your frequency)
  • Uses a 49:1 or 64:1 transformer to match the high impedance (roughly 1,800–5,000 Ω) at the feed end
  • Works on the band it’s cut for and its harmonics (a 40m EFHW works on 20m, 15m, 10m) — but not on lower bands
  • Efficient — most power goes into radiation
Random wire:
  • Any length wire (though some lengths work better)
  • Requires a tuner at the radio to match varying impedance
  • Works on many bands but less efficiently
  • More RF on the feedline and in the shack
Bottom line: EFHW is a resonant antenna; random wire is a compromise antenna. Both have their place.
Will an EFHW cut for 20m work on 40m?
No. The frequency you cut an EFHW for is its lowest band. A 33 ft wire is a half-wave on 20m and two half-waves on 10m, but on 40m it’s only a quarter-wave, so the transformer can’t match it.

To cover 40m and up, cut for 40m (about 66 ft). That one wire covers 40, 20, 15 and 10m. For 80m and up, cut for 80m (about 130 ft).

17m and 12m aren’t whole-number multiples of 40m; MFJ says its 66 ft model doesn’t cover them “because they are not harmonically related to the shorter wire length.” (MFJ does list 30m for that model, but 30m is about 1.43× of 40m — not a whole number — so expect to need a tuner there.)

Sources: PA2DKW, “End-Fed Half-Wave Antenna Kit,” ARRL; MFJ-1982/1984 manual.
My antenna has good SWR but doesn't work well — what's wrong?
Low SWR doesn't mean good antenna! Common issues:

  • Lossy feedline: Old or cheap coax can have high loss, especially on VHF/UHF. RG-58 at 100ft on 2m loses over 5dB!
  • Antenna too low: A dipole at 10ft works, but poorly. Height is gain.
  • Bad ground system: Verticals need radials. No radials = most power heats the ground.
  • Common mode currents: RF on the feedline shield radiates inefficiently. Add a choke balun.
  • Nearby obstructions: Metal buildings, power lines, and trees absorb RF.
  • The "dummy load effect": A perfect 50Ω match that radiates nothing is useless. Resistive losses show as "good" SWR.
A 2:1 SWR antenna that's high and clear often outperforms a 1.1:1 antenna that's low and obstructed.