Coil Calculator & 3D Form Designer
Design air-core inductors and generate 3D-printable coil forms
Design Mode
Input Parameters
Wire & Constraints
Coil Specifications
3D Printable Coil Form
STL ExportForm Parameters
Form Dimensions
Cross-Section View
WTF Does This All Mean?
Plain English version- Loading coils — Make a short antenna "look" electrically longer
- Antenna tuners — Match your antenna to your radio
- Filters — Block or pass certain frequencies
- Baluns/chokes — Block common-mode current on feedlines
- More turns = more inductance (it's proportional to turns²)
- Larger diameter = more inductance
- Longer coil = less inductance (counterintuitive!)
- Closer turns = more inductance
- 18 AWG — Good all-around choice, handles 100W+
- 14-16 AWG — High power (500W+), lower loss
- 22-24 AWG — QRP/low power, smaller coils
- Use enameled magnet wire for close-wound coils
A loading coil makes a short antenna "look" electrically longer. Where you place it matters a lot:
- Base loading (at the feedpoint) — Easiest to build and adjust, but least efficient. More inductance needed.
- Center loading (middle of the antenna) — Better efficiency than base loading. Classic mobile antenna design.
- Top/tip loading (near the end) — Most efficient, but harder to support mechanically.
Higher placement = better efficiency but less inductance needed. Base loading might need 2-3x the inductance of center loading for the same result.
Design Tips
Choosing Diameter
Larger diameter = fewer turns needed, but bulkier coil. For QRP/portable, 20-30mm works well. For high-power, go larger (50mm+) for better heat dissipation.
Wire Gauge
Thicker wire (lower AWG) = lower resistance, higher Q, handles more power. 18 AWG is good for general use. Use 14-16 AWG for high power.
Turn Spacing
Close-wound gives maximum inductance per length. Spaced turns reduce inter-turn capacitance (higher self-resonant frequency) and can handle higher voltage.
For 3D printing: Spaced (1.5x) is the default because it produces grooves wide enough to actually print. Close-wound grooves often disappear in the slicer because the ridges are thinner than your nozzle. If you need close-wound, consider turning off grooves entirely.
3D Printing Tips
Use PETG or ABS. Avoid PLA, which softens at low temperatures and can warp from RF heating or summer sun. Print with 100% infill for strength. Orient vertically for best surface finish on winding area.
No supports needed: The default W9FFF-style design uses flush flanges and shallow grooves - just a simple tube that prints perfectly without any supports or overhangs.
How to Build Your Coil
Step by step, no frustrationPrint Your Form
Download the STL and print it. PETG or ABS works great - avoid PLA which can soften from RF heating. Use 100% infill if you can. Orient the form standing upright for the smoothest winding surface.
Prepare Your Wire
Cut your wire about 10% longer than the calculator says. Straighten it by pulling it through a folded cloth a few times. Enameled magnet wire works best because it lets you wind turns close together without shorting.
Anchor the Starting End
If your form has anchor holes, thread the wire through one hole, pull about 3 inches through, then bend it back on itself. You can also use a small dab of hot glue or tape to hold it in place while you wind.
Wind the Turns
Hold tension on the wire and rotate the form away from you. If you have grooves, the wire will naturally settle in. Keep steady tension but don't pull too hard. Each turn should sit snugly against the previous one (for close-wound) or evenly spaced (for spaced turns).
Secure the Ending
Thread the wire through the anchor hole on the other flange. Pull it snug but not super tight. Leave about 3 inches of tail. You can wrap it back around itself once or twice to lock it in place.
Finishing Touches
If your wire has enamel coating, scrape or sand the last half inch of each end to expose bare copper. This is where you'll solder your connections. A bit of clear nail polish over the windings can help keep everything in place.
Quick Tips
- Wire won't stay in groove? Increase groove depth in the settings, or add a tiny drop of super glue every few turns.
- Running out of wire? Always cut extra. You can trim later but you can't add more.
- Turns look uneven? Don't stress. You can gently push them into place with your fingernail or a plastic tool while keeping light tension.
- Need to redo it? No shame in unwinding and trying again. The second attempt usually goes smoother.
Sources & References
Wheeler's Formula
This calculator uses Wheeler's 1928 formula for single-layer air-core inductors:
L (μH) = (r² × N²) / (9r + 10l)
Where r = radius in cm, l = length in cm, N = number of turns
H. A. Wheeler, "Simple Inductance Formulas for Radio Coils," Proceedings of the IRE, vol. 16, no. 10, pp. 1398-1400, Oct. 1928.
Accuracy
Wheeler's formula is accurate to within ±1% for coils where length ≥ 0.4 × diameter. For shorter coils, accuracy decreases but remains within ±5% for typical ham radio applications.
Further Reading
- ARRL Antenna Book — Chapter on loading coils and matching networks
- ARRL Handbook — Component data and inductor design
- ON4AA's Encyclopedic Information on Inductors
- IN3OTD Air Coil Inductance Calculator